A century ago, Manhattan residents with a hankering for dessert might flick on their finest frock coat, get a table at a white-tablecloth restaurant, and order a juicy slice of Montreal melon. It didn’t come cheap, though. A slice of the green-fleshed melon sold for a steak’s price of $1, or around $30 in today’s currency.
In its day, the Montreal melon was the Champagne of melons. An 1885 newspaper described it as “of the largest size … almost round, flattened at both ends, and deeply ribbed, skin green and netted, flesh very thick and of finest flavor.” Some whole melons weighed more than 40 pounds, and the Queen of England received one every year, carefully wrapped in a wooden basket designed to protect the delicate fruit.
But then the Montreal melon disappeared. And then it came back, then died again. But now its offspring is being grown once again, resurrected by a group of Trappist monks in an abbey northeast of the city.
“The Montreal melon has a storyline that no other fruit or vegetable has,” says journalist Barry Lazar, who was the first to write about the prodigious produce in recent memory, in his 1991 article in The Montreal Gazette.
Also known as a muskmelon or nutmeg melon, the Montreal melon first piqued Lazar’s interest during a walk around his neighborhood.
“I was looking at the street I live on, which is Old Orchard, and sort of wondering about what the community was here and realized that there were basically farmers’ fields that were set up,” he says. “We’re talking into the 18th century or before.”
Lazar’s urban Montreal neighborhood, Notre Dame de Grâce, was once farmland with a sunny slope, perfect drainage, and rich soil fertilized with horse manure collected from the city’s four racetracks. But as the city grew, houses supplanted the farmland and the Montreal melon lost its fertile ground.
“As the horse manure decreased, the farming decreased and housing increased,” Lazar explains.
After writing about the melon, Lazar’s colleague at the Gazette, Mark Abley, couldn’t get the story out of his head. As far as Lazar could tell, there weren’t any seeds to be found, but Abley managed to track some down at the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s collection in Ames, Iowa.
When the small brown envelope of seeds was delivered to the newspaper office, Abley was ecstatic. He knew there was just one person he could entrust to get them growing again: Ken Taylor, an organic farmer just off the island of Montreal in Île Perrot. Taylor worked as a chemistry professor at a local college, but his real passion was growing organic and heirloom fruit, such as Asian pears and some 300 varieties of tomatoes, that people don’t expect would grow in Montreal’s climate.
“Every fruit you can think of, I’ve got an angle and I’m working on it,” says the now 77-year-old.
By the fall harvest, Taylor had managed to grow melons that’d make a turn-of-the-century New Yorker twiddle their mustache in fierce anticipation—some weighed as much as 25 pounds. Taylor passed seeds onto hobby farmers and seed companies in subsequent years, and a local historical association made T-shirts with the iconic fruit printed on them for a fundraiser.